Things forgotten

Along the way, I have recalled conversations (with other people and not myself) and fortunately gifts I have received.

A very funny conversation I had was with a couple from Seattle in Mesa, AZ. As fellow cross country cyclists, they told me of their greatest fears when riding their bikes on the same route as I am. What terrified them more than large dogs pursuing them, tractor trailers barreling within inches of their shoulders or snakes and scorpions when camping - beige or gray Buicks. The couple indicated their unrest when seeing said vehicles, stopped at an intersection. The guess work necessary to determine the approximate age had become a matter of life and death in a split second. From their experience, they determined that statistically speaking, they were more likely to die when a very aged senior citizen who had purchased their obligatory Buick well after their family had determined it to be unwise and unsafe for their elderly family member to be driving at all. The couple indicated that Lincolns were the next scariest vehicles, for much the same reason.

In Superior, AZ, I met Jose, the chef at the cafe where I tented for two days and showered in his apartment. This very kind soul offered me a piece of Arizona and a bit of its folklore. Jose gave me a small (but invaluable to me) Apache Tear. This translucent stone looks effectively like a black rock at first glance, but held up to the light, it is a gorgeous product of thousands of millenia in the geologic history of the region. I carry the piece with me at all times on my bicycle to provide me with a physical remembrance of the delightful days in Superior and the kind soul, Jose.

There may be some repeats of photos but I am too lazy to figure it out and have limited bandwidth. Quit complaining, it's not like you had to take them to the store to get developed!

An incredible memorial shrine in Miami, AZ...no signs other than stating not to destroy.

Cross atop is made out of rebar.

I love old panoramic photos. Found at Gila County Historical Society in Globe AZ.

Some sort of crushing thingy outside the Historical Society. I remember it said something about asbestos.

If you look carefully, the illuminated sign says, "Meth Equals Death"

I stayed a second night in Globe, AZ. My intention was not to do so, but being a bit sluggish on my start of the day, I found that it would be necessary to stay an extra day. On my ride into Globe proper (I had been on the outskirts the first day) I stopped to eat alongside the road. A guy with a fully packed bicycle rode past me as I waved. He was oblivious to my gesticulating. A few minutes later, another fully packed, unusual bicycle with a rider of course, noted my gesticulating. His name is Aaron Lisco, hailing from all over the continent, but calls Oahu his home. We talked a bit about our respective journeys. I suspected he was also riding the southern route as I am. Well, his southern route was in fact more southern than mine. His destination is Terra Del Fuego, Argentina! He started his journey in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska on June 10 and he hopes to complete this leg of his journey along with the rider I saw just a few minutes before Aaron, Axel Nitschka originally from Germany, but a US resident for 20 years.

Aaron mentioned they were going to stay with a resident of Globe who was a host on the Warmshowers.org website and asked if I was also staying there. I advised I planned on camping at the municipal park next to Besh ba Gowah historic site. After a few additional pleasantries, we parted ways and wished each other well.

I then went to the Besh ba Gowah site and saw some amazing historical structures of a community that was evidenced in the early part of the second millenia AD. I wandered through the site and noted a number of intriguing structures and vegetation. I was enamored with the prickly pear cactus fruit. I had eaten one without incident in Superior so I decided after garnering permission from the sites management, to pick a number of pieces of the fruit to enjoy their sweet insides. When the site was closing, I noted a side door of the admissions building opened, near where I locked up my bicycle. I poked my head in the door and noted a video screen pulled down from the ceiling and rows of chairs set up for an obvious presentation of some sort. Being the inquisitive person I am, I strode into the room and inquired about the presentation. The young woman named Laura advised it was about well water in the region and factors that impact the quality of water (not something usually on my list of concerns, only because I haven't been a consistent user of well water since 1975).

Laura and I chatted a bit and discovered she was a Baltimore native and graduated from University of Maryland, Baltimore County. We of course did the obligatory Baltimore-related chat. I also found out she was on her third “tour” with AmeriCorps. I expressed my appreciation for her efforts especially in Globe where one of her programs she is working on is engaging local farmers to have a farmers market to provide fresh produce to all community members. We parted ways, exchanging contact information and well wishes to each other. 

Below are numerous photos from Besh Ba Gowah

Really cool axe heads

Woven sandals - precursor to Birkenstocks?

Just for clarity, the stadium seats are not part of the original findings at the site. In case you were wondering.

A very pointy plant with incredibly thick "hide."

Prickly pear fruit. Yummy but pokey.

Ocotillo plant...I just thought it was the name of a town!

Thankfully, in the botanical garden, the native plants were identified for me!

I then went into downtown Globe to the Vida e Caffe to gain some internet access. I was in there for a while, dissected the prickly pear fruit, got thorns stuck in the roof of my mouth and tongue and decided someone else can peel them properly and I'll eat them! After a cup of joe, some conversation with an employee and a few lip and tongue smacking sounds from the thorns in my mouth, I was approached in the cafe by a gentleman asking if the bicycle parked outside was indeed mine. I assured him I was the owner. He invited me to stay in his home with two other cyclists who were staying for the night that he met on Warmshowers.org!!! Sleeping under a fruitless fig tree or in a bed after a warm shower. Didn't take a rocket scientist (I know three of them and didn't need to confer with them) to figure out where to go for the night. I closed up my spiny food and headed to Larry and Susan Hansen's home in Globe. They are an absolutely delightful couple who also bicycle and so is their son Taylor.

Almost immediately after introductions, I was in my warm shower and bed. In the morning, I arose to find the other two cyclists, Aaron and Axel preparing for the long day's ride, on which I would be joining them. After a quick breakfast, we took a “family” photo for posterity. I noted before leaving that Larry and Susan had a collage of the various cyclists who stayed with them over the past few years. Each photo had a brief story related thereto. Truly fascinating!

Race numbers for the Hansen clan

Collage of the guests who have stayed at the Hansen's home.

The three pedaling amigos said our goodbyes to our gracious hosts, who also fed us breakfast, and pedaled our way out of Globe toward the San Carlos Apache Reservation region. Rode for a couple hours and descended a long slow grade and I began the ascent up the next. I stopped and looked down into an area where I had to photograph. It was the first live rodeo I had ever encountered. Axel and Aaron were pulling into the parking area as I was considering turning around to enter the site. Both Aaron and Axel had seen rodeos before and were awaiting the opening of the food stands with cravings for Indian Burritos. As I understand it, the burritos are basically the same as Mexican, just made by Native Americans. I took some photographs of the participants and Little Miss San Carlos with her pink and white sash.

Little Miss San Carlos

The Triumvirate - Aaron, Axel and the wimpy Florida destined traveler.

We departed without the burritos (we were going to have to wait an hour). We rode many miles through the Apache Reservation. It was very depressing to ride through these small towns that were in obviously poor condition. We stopped periodically for lunch and to fill up our water supplies. Much to our German friend's chagrin, at the one market on the reservation lands, the only fresh fruit he could get to cook was a really sad looking tomato.

Lunch time roadside

Campsite - Melvin Jones Park, Ft. Thomas

We ultimately decided to camp at Ft. Thomas, barely a speck on the map but the home of the founder of the Lions Club International. We set up our tents on the site of the park dedicated to the founder and I went to sleep, listening to some meditation podcasts that I enjoy. I left my headphones in my ears (thankfully I would find out in the AM) and fell asleep. My other campers were quite groggy on that chilly morning where there was frost on my tent from the condensation of my breathing. During the night as I lay meditating, they were arisen by a diesel train idling for hours just 200 feet from our tents and also a domestic disputed outside of a bar just 100 feet from our tents. Ahhh, bless you Skull Candy earphones for drowning out noise I didn't need.

The morning ride was rather chilly and the cold just didn't let up. I kept my cycling pant on for the entire ride to Safford. The three amigos parted for shopping and lunch and regrouped for a trip to WalMart where I scored a foursome of sporks. Therefore, I have room at my “table” for three guests if anyone would like to join me on my journey.

Arizona's Cotton Capital

Downtown Safford. Old Town

I was interested in finding a new front rack for my bicycle and some internet access. We found the local Chamber of Commerce and asked about our respective needs, including hotel rooms. The short of it was Safford lacks solid internet access unless at a hotel. The owner of the bike shop indicated he hadn't sold a front rack for a bicycle in about 15 years. I was unable to get a room at the same hotel as my compatriots. Knowing they were headed south as I was to head east from this point on, we parted ways and wished each other safety and a tail wind. 

Cotton field

Spork

Spork

Welcome to WalMart

 I ended up at my hotel and didn't leave for two days because of a problem with my back. On the second day, I pedaled on only to incur multiple flat tires from the nasty vegetation that pokes through tires! After the third flat of the day, I decided to call it quits and camp, take some sunset photos and chat a bit with friends online and on the phone.

 

A long ascent

I arose, made some breakfast and got on my way, but not before I got another flat, and then a few miles up the hill, another flat. Vulgarities became pervasive around F.G. Superman. I took my time replacing the tube to enjoy the surroundings, listen to some music on my iPod and bask in the warmth of the sun. At one point, I leaned my head against the guardrail behind me, sat very still, and closed my eyes. A few minutes elapsed and in spite of my headphones, I heard a squawk. I opened my eyes to see a large black bird, either a crow or a raven flying very closely to me, struggling against a very strong headwind. I sat up and said, "Hello, sweetie,"  as the aviator cam within about 20 feet of  me. Without being startled and veering off its flight path, the bird continued on, perhaps a bit disappointed that I was not typical roadside non-speaking carrion.

I replaced the last tube I had, with the slowest leak and descended the 7 miles into Three Way, AZ. Now Three Way, AZ is really just a crossroads and a terribly lame convenience store (although I did note they had a Budweiser and Tomato combination drink – I think I have to try that out).

 

Not a bad way to wake up

Looking into the York Valley, near Clifton, AZ

Panoramic views of the York Valley

However, there is a US Forest Service Ranger Station located about 100 yards from the intersection. At this station, they allow camping. I decided on a tough decision. I had to have better tires and tubes sent to me at the Ranger station overnight. I spoke to the receptionist information darling Barbara who advised I could do so. I placed the order...two days minimum! So I'm going to hang out in the open region, of Three Way, perhaps take a few hikes tomorrow and read a bit. I love this trip. I can make a lot of plans, but it is not so much a trip but a journey to the unknown. I love it!

Flat Stanley in front of the entire town of Three Way. THIS is the town.